This article is from the fall 2025 edition of Mobile Baykeeper’s quarterly print, CURRENTS. The magazine is mailed to active members who have given more than $50 in the past year. To get on the magazine’s mailing list, donate here.
By Sam K. Wilkes | Photos by Courtney Mason
As Jonathan Swift is credited as saying, “He was a bold man that first ate an oyster.” Yet, for thousands of years, people have been plucking oysters out of Mobile Bay. The native Mississippians enjoyed them so much their discarded shell piles created massive mounds that remain to this day on Dauphin Island and scattered within the Delta. Oysters serve as a key element to the health and survival of Mobile Bay. One adult oyster can remove harmful nitrogen and other sediments from about ten gallons of water per day. And not only do they provide a natural filtration system for pollutants, but the oyster reefs reduce erosion and create a necessary habitat for the emerging sea life. However, local oyster populations have drastically plummeted in recent years due to both environmental and human influences. According to commercial landings data, more than 80 percent of Mobile Bay’s oyster populations have decreased since 1950. Doug Ankersen, President of Isle Dauphine Oyster Company, knows this well.
“Oysters were one of the first things the Spanish saw when they arrived in 1519, and it’s been a big part of the Bay-area economy,” Doug says. “Having grown up here, I felt we needed to preserve that part of our history.”
Doug grew up on the banks of Mobile Bay, fishing and boating at his grandparents’ house in Belle Fontaine. After graduating from college, he bought a home on the Bay, married his wife (Mary), and raised three children on the water. Years later, Doug took a class on the emerging off-bottom oyster farming technique at the Auburn University Shellfish Lab on Dauphin Island. He was instantly hooked.
“I was able to adapt, tweak, and improve the off-bottom process because of my engineering background,” says Doug. “For example, I designed and built a custom pump for the nursery’s upweller tanks. These tanks bathe the baby oysters in a constant stream of circulating Bay water, so they’re never without food. That contributes to a larger, tastier oyster than using traditional techniques.”
In 2014, Doug and Mary, along with their children, founded the first commercial oyster nursery on Mobile Bay right off Doug’s pier. They started with the Double D Oyster Nursery which later led to acquiring the Isle Dauphine Oyster Company. The family also worked with Auburn University Shellfish Lab to grow oyster seed for other off-bottom farmers in the area.
Typically, oysters take up to 10 to 18 months to mature, depending on the size.
“The single most important factor in the taste, shape, and size of an oyster is the environment. In many ways, it is just like cultivating a fine wine,” says Doug. “The environment is so important that it has a unique name — the ‘merroir.’ From the bold brininess of Dauphin Island to the clean, delicate balance of Mobile-Tensaw Delta, every Isle Dauphine Oyster tells the story of its estuary. Hand-crafted and harvested to order, they are the benchmark of premium oysters in the Gulf — a true taste of place. And if you enjoy fine wine — some of which pair perfectly with oysters — you may recognize the similarity to ‘terroir,’ the environment a vine grows in. It really is the key factor. An oyster’s merroir is completely unique — as little as a mile away will be totally different.”
The term “merroir” stems from the French word for sea, “mer,” modified with the term terroir. And while the terroir of a particular wine is dependent on the soil types, topography, and local climate, Doug’s team selects farming locations aimed at the ideal combination of water flow, temperature, salinity, and diet to cultivate the desired salty, sweet, buttery Isle Dauphine flavor.
“Isle Dauphine oysters feed on nutrient-rich algae blooms that are specific to the Northern Gulf ecosystem. They also feed on a diverse range of Gulf phytoplankton which contributes to the unique taste of our oysters, compared to say, one from another area of the country. It’s just like comparing a Pinot Noir from Central Sonoma Coast in California to, say, one from New Zealand.”
Isle Dauphine oysters are known as being full and plump with a clean, crisp taste and no grit. As Doug says, “We describe them as ‘Alabama premium oysters’ and we think that is accurate.” Doug attributes that to two factors — the waters around Dauphin Island being the optimum environment in conjunction with their proprietary technique of producing an oyster with a deep cup and clean shell that is easy to open. They are also known as “The Cadillac of Oysters,” a name derived from several layers of cultural history.
“Many people may not know this, but the coat of arms for the state of Alabama features ‘La Badine,’ the first French ship to arrive in Alabama at Dauphin Island, which they named ‘Isle Dauphine.’ Dauphin Island was the capital of the Louisiana Territory in the early 1700s. Cadillac refers to Antoine de La Mothe Cadillac, the second governor of Louisiana. Cadillac, of course, also refers to the automobile, which for decades advertised itself as ‘the world’s best synonym for quality.’ When you consider the region, the French history, and the figure of speech, it all makes perfect sense.”
Today, Isle Dauphine utilizes thousands of cages on the north side of Dauphin Island to harvest several millions of oysters a year on average — that’s a lot of beneficial filtrations for our turbid waters. In just one decade, Isle Dauphine has grown to be among the largest and most consistent oyster farms in the state. However, the coveted reputation and continued success of the local oyster business hinges on the health of our waters. “The water quality is super critical,” Doug stresses. “The environment is the most important factor. If temperature, salinity, or a change in diet occurs, it will affect the taste and quality of the oyster.”
Fortunately, Isle Dauphine now has multiple harvest zones that they can usually adjust to the curveballs that the smaller farms struggle with. The Isle Dauphine crew works five days a week, year-round to consistently produce high-quality oysters and to maintain that deep cup. They typically ship within 48 hours from pulling the shells from the water. Isle Dauphine supplies most local area restaurants and packages bulk quantities to a few larger chains. “The Flora-Bama is a popular spot that we supply, but there are many others,” says Doug. “Just be sure to ask for them by name.”
